In garment pattern making, various symbols and markings are used to provide information to the cutter and sewer. An
arrow mark on a pattern piece, typically a straight line with arrowheads at one or both ends, is used to indicate the
grainline (or grain line). The grainline shows how the pattern piece should be aligned with the grain of the fabric:
- Lengthwise grain (Straight grain): The arrow is usually drawn parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. This is the most common alignment, utilizing the warp direction of woven fabrics or wale direction of knitted fabrics, which generally has the least stretch and provides stability.
- Crosswise grain: The arrow is perpendicular to the selvedge (along the weft or course direction).
- Bias grain: The arrow is at a 45-degree angle to the selvedge, for maximum drape or stretch.
Correct alignment of pattern pieces with the fabric grain is crucial for the proper fit, drape, and appearance of the finished garment. Let's evaluate the options:
- (a) Top stitching: This is a type of stitching visible on the outside of the garment, often decorative or functional. It's indicated by different line types or notes, not usually a primary arrow mark for grain.
- (b) On fold: This instruction means the edge of the pattern piece should be placed on a fold of the fabric, creating a symmetrical piece when cut (e.g., for a center front or back that has no seam). This is usually indicated by a specific symbol like a bracketed line with "Place on Fold" text, or a line with bent arrowheads pointing to the fold edge.
- (c) Points of joining (Notches): Notches are small marks (triangles, lines) on the edges of pattern pieces that indicate where corresponding pieces should be matched and joined during sewing.
- (d) Grain (Grainline): As explained, a straight arrow mark indicates the grainline, which dictates the alignment of the pattern piece on the fabric.
Therefore, an arrow mark on a pattern indicates the grainline. \[ \boxed{\text{Grain}} \]