‘When were you in Morocco?’ a globetrotter friend excitedly asked me. ‘Never been there, I’m keen to visit it, though,’ I sallied. ‘This is Morocco,’ he said emphatically, pointing to an image on the monitor. ‘This is Punjab,’ I countered. ‘It’s the Grand Mosque of Marakesh,’ he stressed. ‘It’s the Moorish Mosque in Kapurthala,’ I smiled. Our rebuttal session got a tad extended leaving my friend utterly flummoxed and I thought of bailing him out. ‘You’ve been partially accurate all along. The mosque is a replica.’ He was astounded. So are a host of others initially when they see the images of Kapurthala, an erstwhile royal province defined by its architectural grandeur. Their surprise springs not from the verity that a facsimile structure exists, but from the knowledge that it stands in Punjab!
The feisty agrarian land of Punjab has always been shy in boasting about its built heritage, instead letting its overenthusiastic bhangra and scrumptious tandoori chicken do most of the talking. Nonetheless, it does have stunning edifices dotting its landscape and is quite an indulgence for the history-digger. Amongst them all, Kapurthala is definitely the crowning glory. Its lineage dates back to founder, Jassa Singh Ahluwalia, an astute warrior, who played a pivotal role in crushing numerous invasions to become the first leader who consolidated large parts of Punjab. In a way, Jassa Singh laid the path for Punjab’s most exceptional monarch, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, to establish an impregnable Sikh empire years later.
However, Kapurthala owes its structural legacy to Maharaja Jagatjit Singh. A widely-travelled royal, his voyages allowed him to see exceptional architecture and he chose the blueprint of some of the finest in the world to adorn his State with. That’s how Kapurthala got the Moorish Mosque. Recreated by the French architect, Manteaux, on the pattern of the Koutoubia or Grand Mosque of Marakesh, Morocco’s signature structure, it was erected in 1930 at a cost of ` 4 lakh. Far removed from the Indo-Islamic, marble-domed mosques found around the country, it has instead a brick-work facade, no dome, a flat roofed entrance and, uniquely, a single cuboidal minaret.
What appealed instantly were the joyous colors that reflected a Mediterranean ambience. I was gripped by a rose pink wall meeting a lemon one round the corner, mustard-colored arches, glazed dark turquoise ridged tiles capping a hexagonal dome or the touch of green in its minaret. The intricate, brick-filigreed minaret is further adorned with a spire which is three copper balls in reducing size, signifying the traditional style of the Almohads, a dynasty that originated in 1121 A.D. with Ibn Tumart, a Berber tribe member of the Atlas Mountains; and by 1149 A.D., it had established its control over Marakesh. The Grand Mosque was built between 1184 and 1199 A.D. Centuries later, the Moorish Mosque in Punjab stood as a splendid link in the six degrees of separation from a passage of history that played out in distant Africa.
Today’s Kapurthala has a reticent charm. In addition to this slice of Morocco, the town is dotted with other European replicas too. I observed a bit of France in the Jagatjit Palace, a close reproduction of the Palace of Versailles, that is now the Sainik School. A touch of Greece came across in the Jagatjit Club that’s designed on the lines of the Acropolis. A bevy of places that completed the impressive line-up were the IndoSaracenic Jhagar Singh War Memorial; Elysee Palace that’s now MGN Public School; the Islamic-patterned former Durbar Hall which at present serves as the District Court; and the Randhir College that was set up in 1856 and named after a former ruler.